A Home Inspector’s Advice on Choosing the Right House

Over my 16 years as a full-time house inspector, I’ve learned that many homebuyers make simple, avoidable errors in judgment. This article aims to help prospective homebuyers think critically about the houses they see. During your home inspection, we will do our best to protect you from any unexpected problems.

A professional home inspection is still necessary, but avoiding a bad investment and unnecessary stress by picking the right house from the start can help. I’ve done one too many home inspections where serious flaws were present that were obvious to anyone. Here, we’ll go through the fundamentals of performing a structural and mechanical assessment of a house. I want to emphasize again that this is NOT a substitute for a professional house inspection, but it may help you avoid making an uninformed offer on the incorrect property.

I’m not suggesting that a house with flaws (aren’t they all?) can’t be considered. It can, but being prepared with as much data as possible before making an offer will assist. Say, for illustration, you have chosen between two dwellings. The size, quality, age, and location are all comparable. The ages of both houses are 18 years. In one, the HVAC system, roof, and H2O heater are all brand spanking new. Everything about the other is authentic. What’s the best deal here? The solution seems straightforward, but prospective homebuyers rarely consider it that way. Here, we’ll make an effort to alter that.

Once you’ve decided which areas and schools are viable options, you can begin narrowing your home search. This is a simplified explanation of the steps taken by a professional house inspection. It should aid in the process of elimination.

We’ll start with a quick double-circle outside. Once from close range, then once from a greater distance. During the initial tour, we will be on the lookout for any obvious problems, such as wood rot or cracks in the building’s facade. Check the overhang, the gutters, the roof, the windows, and the doors. Check the soffit overhang for water damage and discoloration. Especially in the case of tile roofs, this is a common sign of a leak.

On our second round, we’ll be far enough away to take in the whole view, so we’ll be there. Where does the house stand relative to the ground? Elevated homes are always better, as many slopes away from the building. (I once renovated a house in the center of a large bowl a quarter mile deep in all directions. It became the focal point of all water flow, leading to insurmountable flooding problems. There was nothing else for the buyer to do but back out of the deal. Take a look at the ridge of the house. Note any sagging framework or shingles that have curled or show signs of wear. Verify the squareness and plumpness of the walls. Go around the house and take a look at everything. Look at how the cladding on the walls and the rest of the outside are holding up.

The mechanics are up next.

We are not concerned with minute details but rather with the overall age and health. One of the most significant issues is the HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) setup. Let’s get the air conditioner taken care of first. Looking at the serial number is generally sufficient for dating them. This is often located on a metal plate secured to the air conditioner. It’s not uncommon to get down on your hands and knees to locate them, but this is especially true of specific Bryant/Carrier and other types. The year of production is typically found in the third and fourth (or second and third) digits of the serial number. American Standard and Trane rating plates feature a “manufacture date” section in the top right corner. It would be great if all factories were as kind as this one. Typed labels, which some manufacturers use for their information plates, wear out after a year or two at most. If that’s the case, it’s useless as a data source.

The typical lifespan of an air conditioner is between 12 and 15 years. Though I recognize there is room for debate, I think it sums up the consensus. They often don’t live that long, but I’ve seen them last for more than 25. You need to activate the air conditioner and listen to it purr. Pay attention to any strange sounds. Inside, it would be best to only worry about whether the air is cool. Later, have your Home Inspector perform a more comprehensive inspection. Keep in mind its age and condition for the time being. Replacement air conditioning equipment will be much more expensive from January 2006, when new efficiency criteria become law.

Let’s have a peek inside the heater and air conditioner. I suggest just looking at it without touching it. Trust your home inspector with that decision. Try to determine its age based on its general condition. Electric furnaces are often called air handlers in warmer regions, such as Florida. Don’t open it; examine it from the outside to see if it seems legitimate. Does it look abandoned or cared for?

Equipment for heating water A water heater’s age can be determined in much the same manner that an air conditioner’s age can. Check the rating plate for a serial number to understand how old it is. Only the Bradford-White brand presents any real challenge in this regard. Water heaters typically last anywhere from 8 to 12 years, give or take a few years, due to considerations like water hardness. That range is usually quite spot on. However, there are exceptions. When replacing your water heater, you won’t have to worry about spending too much money.

Kitchen It’s not hard to cook here. Take a close look at the furnishings and storage options. You can use any drawers and doors, but please use caution if anything falls on you. I mean, sh*t happens. Turn on the sink’s water supply and garbage disposal. Think about how old the appliances are and how they look. Later, have your home inspector perform a more in-depth checkup.

Plumbing Water all sinks and tubs while leaving the lids off the toilets so you can see the water draining. Water should be run for a few minutes while inspecting the septic field for signs of backup or a foul odor if a septic system is present. Either one can mean there’s a significant issue with the septic tank. Warning of the highest importance! When water is being run, always watch the drains closely. While I haven’t experienced a clogged drain myself, I know many home inspectors who have.

There’s no complication in the interior design. Use the furniture, peek through the windows, and examine the rooms. If the flooring is tile, inspect for broken tiles and disintegrating grout. Cracks up to a specific size are often accepted, but any gaps offset from the surface may require further investigation. Check for water damage by inspecting the ceilings. Important hint: check the tops of closets with a flashlight. Homeowners commonly overlook water stains in cupboards.

Electrical Try not to overextend yourself. If you only want to turn on the lights and check out the control panel without touching anything behind it, that’s fine; open the front door. (This primary control board is sometimes called a “fuse box” by some.) How big is the main disconnect/breaker? (It’s usually outside the main panel, by the meter.) 100-, 150-, and 200-amp versions dominate the market. The size of your electrical service is indicated on the main disconnect itself. Some “fuse boxes” (60 amp) are still in use in older residences. If that is the case, we will need to allocate around $2,000 for the improvement.

By carefully following these steps, you’ll improve your chances of submitting a house purchase offer successfully. Now that the request has been approved, it’s time to look for a qualified house inspector.

Some advice for finding the right house inspector. Most professionals will agree that you should carefully investigate a house inspector’s background and experience. Many states, like the one I call home (Florida), do not license or control house inspectors. The vast majority of purportedly legitimate home inspector “certifications” on the market are, at best, dubious. They benefit the certification mills financially while giving homeowners false hope that their inspector is qualified. It’s tragic because one of the groups involved is quite sizable.

Most legal and industry professionals will tell you to work exclusively with ASHI (www.ashi.org)-certified inspectors. Some state-level groups are also among the most trustworthy in the country. There is FABI (www.fabi.org) in Florida, CREIA (creia.org) in California, and TAREI (tarei.org) in Texas. NAHI (nahi.org) is another notable national organization. Their membership standards are less strict than ASHI’s, yet they are still an excellent group. These are the most prominent legitimate organizations, while more exist. If you are in the market for a home inspection, I advise settling for nothing less than the best. Don’t believe an inspector just because they say they are a member. There is a widespread prevalence of bogus claims of ASHI membership. Always double-check the group above’s website.

A home inspection is what Bruce Lunsford does for a living in the Naples/Fort Myers area of Florida. He has been a house inspector for over 16 years, and his education is in engineering. He has served as president of ASHI’s state chapter and holds membership in ASHI and FABI.
Naples and Fort Myers Home Inspectors You Can Trust

Bruce Lunsford, 2006, copyright reserved. You may only quote directly from this article. The author must be given due credit.

In the Naples/Fort Myers area of Florida, you can get the services of Home Inspector Bruce Lunsford. His contact information is as follows:

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